Lobuche & Island Peak Climbing
Duration : 28 days
Difficulty : Medium
Max Altitude : 6189m
Accomodation : Hotel & Camping
Start Date : 17th Sep/8th Oct 2023
Price per Person: 4285€
Its ascent takes us to the heart of the Himalayas, as close as possible to the highest peaks on the planet. In Sherpa Country, all the myths of the Himalayas are present in a postcard setting.
Yaks and mani walls, banners flapping in the wind, llamas muttering mantras, hordes of breathless tourists and the most beautiful mountain in the world
If you want to discover Nepal and Sagarmatha, make a big trek but also climb your first Himalayan summit, immerse yourself in Sherpa and Buddhist culture, this small Lobuche Peak is a godsend.
It offers a loop route that begins with a trek to Gokyo, makes a detour to the top of Gokyo Ri then crosses the Cho La pass to allow us to perfect our acclimatization. Before joining our altitude camp, near a small, well-hidden lake.
The altitude is important without being extreme and the difficulty of the ascent is very affordable (PD in snow). We just need to be comfortable on the crampons and learn to use our ropes well.
The Lobuche is intended for hikers with a little experience of mountaineering or for mountaineers wishing to make their first ascent at high altitude.
The Nepalese team of Himalayan Travelers will be very close to us and particularly attentive because it is for our friends mountain guides also a technical training course Learning by Doing (The third part of “To be guide…?”).
And especially with the Island Peak extension …
It is also a project in two parts , with first the ascent of Lobuche in 3 weeks, then for those who wish to continue their discovery of Khumbu, one more week to climb Island Peak , but by “fair means », In an alpine rope and without a fixed rope with one of the Himalayan Travelers guides.
I will devote myself exclusively to the ascent of Lobuche and Deepen will be my assistant for this first part and then the leader of the Island Peak expedition.
The progression style.
It is a continuous progression with maybe 1 altitude camps on the ridge.
We will always progress roped, in ropes of two people, some will evolve in autonomy and the roped parties can be Franco-Nepalese.
For the Lobuche there will definitely be some fixed ropes in place, but we’ll try not to overuse them. Not easy…For Island Peak, almost all groups use the fixed ropes in place (and pay a fee for it). will we be able to do differently? In any case, we will take the necessary equipment (two technical ice axes, pins and a rappelling rope).
The management team.
We’ve been climbing together for a very long time.
And you will find them in the last reports, as for the Himlung… (Link but franch) in the fall of 2015 , in the spring of 2016 and for the Traversée de l’Himlung in 2017. But also for internal training at the Himalayan Travelers agency such as the most recent at the Loha Pass. And for over 10 years, we explored Mustang together. It is therefore a well-established and stable team.
And with Bishal, I have been traveling Nepal with him since the fall of 2002!
The itinerary below is intended as a guideline only, although every effort will be made to adhere to it, changes may be forced upon it by weather conditions, transport failure or other unforeseen events. You should be prepared to be flexible where necessary.
Lobuche Peak, our itinerary
The ascent is both classic and takes place in the heart of the Khumbu mountains.
Our trip begins at the foot of the great stupa of Boudhanath, in Kathmandu.
After a short mountain flight, from Lukla, we will reach Namche Bazar then Kumjung.
By Phorse we will take the time to acclimatize ourselves to Gokyo to climb the Gokyo Ri on
the way. The crossing of Cho La takes us to our base camp.
After the summit of Lobuche East 6118 m, part of the group will continue towards Island peak and on my side, I will supervise the three-week group going down to the monastery of Thyanboche then, again, Namche Bazar.
We just have to take the plane to end our stay in Baktapur, the most beautiful Newar town in the valley.
And the Island Peak group will make the same comeback a week later.
Island Peak, our itinerary
The ascent of Island Peak is very classic (and even more!), Since it is one of the most frequented peaks of Khumbu.
But it is also the archetype of a deviant Himalayan practice.
We had already addressed this subject in our book with Jean Annequin, “Sommets du N Nepal”…
The objective here is to show that an alternative is possible, even within the framework of a supervised practice. Island Peak is not necessarily this caricature of mountaineering, it is above all a very beautiful, somewhat technical summit, in a grandiose setting for everyone to prove that an ascent in good style is possible and above all very rewarding, for the first in line as for the second.
“When you book with Himalayan Travellers, we want you to be fully informed about the cost of your trip. Our fully inclusive land-only price ensures that there are no hidden extras or last-minute costs. Almost everything is included in the price, and if you would like to provide gratuity for your trekking and expedition staff, it is entirely optional. We want you to enjoy your trip with peace of mind knowing that everything has been taken care of.”
Cost Includes
- Airport transportation as per your arrival and Departure.
- Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B plan.
- Private transportation, Buss and jeeps.
- Climbing Guide, and porters.
- Peak climbing permit and all government taxes.
- National part permit fee, and Local permit.
- Full board trekking and in B.C meal.
- Peak manager, cook, support Cooks and porters with their equipment, daily wages, food, insurance etc.
- All lodge/camping and kitchen equipment including base camp tents, dining tent with table and chair, kitchen tent, toilet tent etc.
- EPI gas and burner for high altitude.
- Agency service charge.
Cost Not Includes
- The Nepalese visa.
- Insurance (compulsory on all trips – ensure you are adequately covered for emergency evacuation by helicopter).
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Spending of a personal expenses, E.G. laundry, snacks and bottle drinks, souvenirs, etc.
- International flight.
Lobuche & Island Peak… A very Grobelian expedition
To repeat myself over and over again.
This expedition has nothing to do with a proposal for an “organized trip” style agency, even similar, even supervised by a guide!
This trip to altitude is built on the notion of a collaborative project , on “doing together” , where everyone is involved in the “good” progress of this shared (and supervised) adventure.
The notion of mountaineering is very present there and we will try to promote as much as possible a roped progression, in alpine technique.
With:
- shared decision-making (when there is no notion of urgency),
- a large place in the field for the autonomy of the roped parties ,
- a Franco-Nepalese management team ,
- a stated desire to co-construct this ascent and the associated trek.
- precise strategic choices: continuous progression , alpine ropes , no fixed rope, built autonomy.
And, I know from experience that it is a demanding and difficult exercise.
But, for me, this is the only realistic proposition given the complexity of this type of Himalayan ascent, where the multitude of hazards (transport, logistics, weather, mountain conditions, physics, health, relationships… and even earthquakes!), there are also the risks of personal or group satisfaction.
In short, it takes a lot of energy for everything to go well, or the best possible.
And fortunately this is often the case, except that sometimes … everything gets complicated.
Like the slogan Grand Corps Malade ” Alone we go fast, together we go far … “.
And in the Himalayas we are sometimes really far from everything, and especially the comfort of home. But it is also what makes the interest and the richness of these Himalayan itineraries.
Is it safe in Nepal?
Yes, it is safe in Nepal. Over the past 10 years, Nepal has become the top traveling destinations in the world.
What is Trekking?
Trekking is a form of walking, undertaken with the specific purpose of exploring and enjoying the scenery. It usually takes place on trails in areas of relatively unspoiled wilderness.
What is climbing or Expedition?
Mountain expedition or climbing is typically referred to a long journey or voyage undertaken for a specific purpose, often exploratory, scientific, geographic, in high mountains. It is the activity of using one’s hands and feet to ascend a steep object.
Do I need Trekking Permit?
Yes, for trekking all regions is has required Trekkers’ Information Management System (TIMS) as new policy. You will need a National park / Conservation entrance permit. Some of control area does require a special trekking permit issue by Immigration through trekking agency.
Do I need Climbing/ Expedition Permit?
Yes, compulsory you need climbing/expedition permit. We have 33 trekking peaks which permit issued by the Nepal mountaineering Association for more information visit www.nepalmountaineering.org. The rest of the mountain to climb we need to collect the permit from Nepal Government – Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation – for more information visit www.tourism.gov.np which issue by Trekking agency.
What types of equipment do i need?
Light, loose garments are recommended in spring (March, April and May) and summer (June, July and August), while woolens and jackets or similar warm clothings are needed from November to February.
I am suffering from Acrophobia can i do trekking in Nepal?
Yes you can do. we have many place to go small hill trek, like Kathmandu valley trek, Pokhara valley trek, Ghorepani poon hill trek, mardi himal trek…….
How can I book my trip?
You can book your trip by mail. mail Address:-
Mobile Namber:- +977-98 51 06 21 76
How to make payment?
The 25 % payment in advance through the company bank account. Please note full payment should be made before tour departure date for cash. For cheque or bank transfer.
What are the best seasons/months to do trek in Nepal?
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Nepal. Lots of travelers want to visit Nepal in September, October, March, and April.
What is the difference between trekking, hiking and mountain climbing?
You can do all three activities in Nepal, but they are quite different things. Trekking is a multi-day walk, where you stay overnight at the place you have walked to. Hiking generally refers to a one-day walk. It might be two hours or eight, but if it takes place within a single day, it will probably be referred to as a hike. Mountain climbing is another thing entirely. It takes special equipment, training and comes with more risk. Neither trekking nor hiking require any special skill, other than the ability to walk.
What is Personal Insurance?
You will need personal travel insurance before coming Nepal so you are responsible to organize travel insurance, which at least covers injury, medical expenses, rescue, repatriation, cancellation, etc.
Do will we use Oxygen?
Oxygen,We will not use oxygen for progression. And it is not (either) a service that is offered.
However, we will have an oxygen cylinder for medical use. Clearly, it is only used in the event of a problem, to descend (and especially not to continue to climb!)
will we use fixed ropes?
It’s more interesting to guide expeditions without fixed ropes (or with as few as possible).
And overall, if we do use fixed ropes, we will take them OUT
What is High Altitude Sickness?
General trekkers going to higher altitudes quickly the problems like headache, Nausea, shortness of breath, tiredness encountered at high altitude i.e. above 8000 ft. Factor of Altitude Sickness.
Specially, in trekking in Himalaya there are problems of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Our bodies have the ability to adjust to higher altitudes if given enough time. This process of adaptation is called acclimatization. Altitude illnesses observed in Nepal include acute mountain sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), the presence of fluid in the lungs. High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), swelling of the brain. And High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage (HARH), bleeding in the retina of the eye.
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport?
Yes, somebody will come to the airport to pick you. Outside of Terminal Hall, he/she will be displaying a play card of Himalayan travellers trek & Expedition.





