manaslu

manaslu himal expedition 2021

Duration : 42 days

Difficulty : Medium

Max Altitude :                 8163m

Accomodation : Hotel & Camping

Start Date : 04 September 2021

Price per Person: 14595 €

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Manaslu expedition 2021

MANASLU 2021…

Objective 8000, the ascent of Manaslu.
For many enthusiasts of the High Altitude, this mythical figure of 8000 m is a beautiful objective, the dream of a lifetime of mountaineer.
In Nepal, Manaslu allows you to experience this adventure with the greatest possible chance of success.
Its technical difficulty allows you to concentrate exclusively on all the components of life at altitude.
But, this should not mean minimizing the excess and the effort required to reach its summit. Nor forget the beauty of a trek in Nepal and the fantastic atmosphere of the highest mountains in the world.

manaslu

Manaslu 2021,

Dates & registration

  • From Saturday April 17 to Sunday May 30, 2021

Before registering …

A logic of mutual cooptation.
From the notion of “client” to that of “team member”.

The registration methods that I want to use illustrate the tone of the expeditions that I supervise. The objective is to move from the notion of “client” to that of “team member” to build a united, competent and dynamic group, involved in the success of the project.
But no worries… It is not for me to escape my duties, obligations and responsibilities, quite the contrary.
It is simply another way of approaching the subject, more in line with my values, the nature of these sometimes very complex projects, and my vision of things.

An expedition is above all a project co-carried out by each participant, each of whom contributes to the success.

It is therefore essential to contact me, either by email or by phone.

All the administrative part: the regulations, the air, the insurance, is ensured by SERAC, a tourism association, of which I am a member, which brings together guides and guides. 
It is therefore to SERAC that you must contact for any registration request, via the website.

Here is the link for online registration on the SERAC website. 

In addition to the presentation on my site, a technical sheet is also available. It gathers all the “mandatory” information concerning the trip. All you have to do is click on the link on the SERAC website (coming soon).

The preparation of the expedition will indeed begin during the weekend of meeting of the whole team in early summer 2018.
It is therefore fundamental because it allows to validate the relevance of the ascent for each participant, both from a technical point of view. that of group cohesion.

I am of course at your disposal to answer any questions you have.
Do not hesitate!

Is :

  • by mail ()
  • by phone, at 06 42 90 75 34

When I am in the Himalayas, all is not lost!
Call SERAC on 04 76 86 46 84.
Noëlle  knows perfectly well the field of expeditions and  Charlène  will be able to inform you about your air reservation, the follow-up of your reservation request, ect.


The budget
21,000 €, international air travel included.

manaslu

Manaslu 2021, Travel strategy.

I offer you a combination of two techniques, “sawtooth” and “gentle progression”, but resolutely continuous . Because it seems wise to me to plan an ascent in two parts, with a rest period at the base camp.
In 2021, it will therefore be a question of setting up camp “Minus 1”, then Camp 1, sleeping there for one or two nights and transporting equipment to Camp 2.
Then back down to Base Camp .
After one or two days of rest at the base camp, it will be the final departure for this great trip to the top of Manaslu, directly joining the classic Camp 1, where our tents await us.
The next day will allow us to gather team and equipment.
It is thus possible to build a provisional schedule which gives a more precise vision of this ascent in “gentle progression”.

Manaslu 2021 … the difficulty of the ascent

It is an ascent exclusively in snow, taking place in a grandiose glacial terrain where tormented passages and easier areas alternate. Two passages are a little more difficult, but always equipped with fixed ropes. We will therefore have the choice of our trip, with or without.
The final part is rather simple except the last 50 m. (But are they really climbed by all the declared “summiters”?!).
It’s up to us to make this effort as quietly as possible, being in the best possible way at Camp 4, in good shape and in good health.

The rating can be evaluated at VII / AD- in snow (in Himalayan ratings). Which is already important!

Fixed ropes
Three sections are classically equipped with fixed ropes, between 5700 and 6100 then between 7100 and 7400 + the last summit part.
The great majority of climbers move without being roped on the mountain. But it is possible to make the ascent by being roped. The ridiculous does not kill yet, on the other hand the crevasses, yes …
We will therefore always be roped!

And we will use these fixed ropes at a minimum.

Oxygen
We will not use oxygen for progression. And it is not (either) a service that is offered.
However, we will have an oxygen cylinder for medical use. Clearly, it is only used in the event of a problem, to descend (and especially not to continue to climb!)

Level of participants:

Very good physical condition.
A practice of alpinism at a PD / AD level in the Alps, to be comfortable in snow slopes at 40 ° / 45 °
An experience of expeditions, and if possible on a large summit of more than 7000 m ..
A good dose of patience, tolerance and humor …

The idea is to give back to the choice of a summit its true dimension, that which motivates the departure: the journey and especially the life in altitude. It is a conscientious mountaineering that underlies the entire approach of the Slow Attitude expeditions, favoring immersion in altitude rather than the most limited and rapid incursion possible.
The result of a reflection on how to optimize the acclimatization period to climb the highest mountains on Earth, the stepwise progression (maliciously popularized as a snail strategy) is organized from a grip of altitude and reasonable efforts. It is then a question of replacing the pre-established use of round trips from altitude camps to base camp, with continuous progression.

A climbing method that directly impacts:

• – the notion of base camp, since it only becomes a place of passage.

• – the length of life at altitude, with a prolonged stay and a multiplication of camps,

• – the experience of the ascent which is similar to a real trip to altitude,

• – the quality of everyday life where the attention of every moment delays the obsession of the top,

• – the intensity of relationships by strengthening the group’s cohesion in each of its trips.

This exclusion from the world is an inestimable privilege.
To better appreciate, beyond controlling the means implemented to climb a mountain, our primary motivation: to be in the mountains and to live well there. 

Continuous progress and Slow Attitude …

It is about building a reasoned progression without thoughtless effort, by increasing the number of camps. The movement is continuous, with a single set of tents, which must be dismantled and reassembled at each camp with a short return trip between each camp.
The base camp is “rustic” and of very limited use: the first few days then for safety in the event of a descent of one of the members of the group.
Paradoxically, the duration of the ascent is slightly less than that of a “Himalayan technique” ascent.

                         Back in the valley, with a comfortable camp.  

The camps:

The location of the camps, in “Himalayan technique”…
The ascent of Manaslu is currently and mainly done with 4 camps which are completely pre-equipped by the altitude carriers before the ascent.
The base camp is most often very comfortable (transfer by helicopter, generator, heated tents, computers, internet, communications PC).
And a complete set of fixed rope mountain.

Classic camps:
CB: 4850
C1: 5700 (+ 850)
C2: 6300, (+ 600)
C3: 6700, (+ 400)
C4: 7400, (+ 700)
Summit: 8156, (+ 756)

 
manaslu

The camps in continuous progression:
CB 4850 m
Minus 1: 5360, (+ 510)
C2: 5700, (+ 340), it is the classic camp 1
C4: 6450, (+ 330), slightly above the camp 2 classic
C5: 6780 (+ 330), it’s classic camp 3
C6: 7110 (+ 330), just before the steeper part
C7: 7450 (+ 340), it’s classic camp 4 .

Francois

Expedition leader and “Base Camp Manager”…?

This expedition corresponds for me to a change of status.
 From high mountain guide to experience leader, manager of the team of Nepalese guides.
I would like to live my role with particular attention to the management of the group, without necessarily wanting to go to the top. Without the pressure of personal success.
A way of saying that there is indeed a pilot on the plane, before the expedition, during the approach march and on the mountain.
In particular, the whole approach walk is a fundamental moment to build the foundations of a good acclimatization with regular meetings to gradually learn to live the altitude well. And precisely, we will cross a first pass at more than 5000 m before joining our base camp.
By this new status, a little less at the forefront, I will have to leave more room for my Nepalese companions, to let them experience and live the role of guide until the top, and also to remain available and transmit as best as possible. my experience.
Concretely, I would take care of all the first part of the expedition, the preparation, the approach walk and the climb to Camp 2. I would certainly go to Camp 3 to possibly greet Manaslu North or another summit above camp 1.

The final part of the expedition will be supported by the Nepalese guide team I validerais displacement ( quick we decided together …)

The main goal is always to have no accident or bodily injury. And knowing how to give up at the right time when necessary.
It will certainly be one of my last experiences at very high altitude.

Next time, my Nepalese companions will take full charge of this shared adventure.

morning

Manaslu 2021… On the mountain.

For me, the time of the trek is suspended for a moment.
 A transition between a sedentary lifestyle and the great altitude trip that is being prepared. We have already left, we have already started our roaming, but this roaming is still very comfortable. We haven’t radically changed the world yet.
This is the moment when my rhythm is set up: I go to bed early, I spare myself some quiet time to read and write, I try to step back a little to find myself better.

Here we are at base camp… life is getting organized.
 The first day will be a day of preparation for all the participants.
So it’s not really a day of rest, even if we’re not moving, because there is really a lot to prepare.
This first stage of the experiment consists, for each one, in organizing the transport of his belongings to our camp 2. This camp, just before a more technical passage, constitutes the key point to validate the rest of the progression.
For many, it is the moment of a new learning, more difficult than it seems: the management of the weight of the backpack and the choice of the things to carry according to the next ports.

With an important message: it is the transported weight (the payload) limited to 12 / max 15 kg which determines the number of portages to be carried out, and not the other way around. 

And, the more the expedition has been prepared in great detail for food and equipment, the easier the portage is. For this, a well-built prior experience is necessarily a plus.
Further learning is also necessary.

How to live well at altitude?
How to organize our life in altitude in the tent?
And above all to stay in good health …

manaslu

Very high above the village of Sama stands the divinity that the inhabitants call Pungyen and that we know under the nepali name of Manaslu (the mountain of the soul) .
Paintings on the walls of the village temple represent this warrior deity, [dGra lha] wearing a white turban, wielding a sword, riding a white horse and holding the “precious jewel” in his left hand.
He is invoked and prayed by the population, to protect them from the evil spirits that roam around the village. If he is unhappy, he will send storms and avalanches destroying the homes and fields of the unfortunate villagers.
Pungyen literally means “great number (dPung) of ornaments (rgyan)”. This should not be understood only by: an accumulation of earth, rocks and seracs, but above all by an accumulation of religious teachings, a world of wealth, a place where a multitude of animals live.
You have to look at the rising sun at the light that adorns the mountain. It is the divine palace of Lord Pungyen, his wife and his son.

This mountain, the local god [yul lha] of Sama, has always been worshiped by the inhabitants who pay homage to him in these terms.

“I bow to the protector of our land,
the awe-inspiring and snow-capped Mount Pungyen, conveniently
located on the border of Tibet and Nepal.
In accordance with the prophecies of Lord Buddha,
he once arose from the ground, the king of all mountains.
From the outside the mountain looks like a chorten
made of light refracting through a rock crystal.
Inside resides Lord Pungyen and his divine court
reflected perfectly as though through a mirror.
From the abode of the divinities (lhas), in the heights
the mountain descends towards the earth like a chöten.
From the underground world of the naga
the mountain rises high in the sky like a jewel.
The protector, Lord Pungyen, lives here as a king in the middle world.
I bow with respect to the one who resides on this wonderful mountain. “

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